Mar. 9 – Anlong Veng, Recently demined

Scary, I had heard about land mines, but I had not seen any warning signs for them in the country yet, except on tourist t-shirts, until we arrived at the town of Anlong Veng. Three-hours away from Siem Reap and right by the Thailand border, this town was the last stronghold of the Khmer Rouge.

Driving up the mountain in Anlong Veng, we see these signs—a white skull on a red square—on either side of our one lane dirt road. I really have to pee, so ma says, “Go in the bush!” I look at her, then at the signs, then at her and say, “Are you kidding!” She says, “There are no land mines by Ta-Mok’s house; pee near there.” (Ta-Mok was second in command of the Khmer Rouge party). I hold it.

A few signs do say that the area has been cleared; though they still warn us to stay on paths at all times. Therefore, no peeing in the bush here for me!

We do climb out of the car to walk on a clearly heavily trodden path in between long grass to the ruins of Ta-Mok’s house. Then we walk out and perch on this huge rock that jets over the edge of the mountain. What a look out point the Khmer Rouge had! They heavily mined the area up to the mountain so that those who tried to climb up to them were blown apart. Ironically, Ta-Mok lost a leg to one of his own land-mines. Afterwards, we visit, leader of the Khmer Rouge, Pol-Pot’s cremation site. Both Pol Pot and Ta-Mok died of natural causes back in the 90’s. Finally, we check out Ta-Mok’s summer residence where the strongest Khmer Rouge leaders convened. The room is half-enclosed and half-open, with these ornately carved banisters adorned further by a flower bush next to them. The blackened stumps of trees in the field, however, contrast with the picturesque room, serving as reminder of what really took place here. Although tough to take in, I am happy we made the drive out here.